Walking
into the Ghibli Museum is as magical as you’d think it would be. Totoro is
there to greet you and ask for tickets, which you have to purchase a month in
advance for fear of it being sold out, and the doors open into a wonderful labyrinth
of childhood. Not unlike most parts of Japan, it is full of people. You watch
your feet so you don’t step on an actual child while you’re lost in memories of
your own growing up years. You step back, a bit, from the window in front of
you so that they can reach it with their small frames, but you look through it,
too, with just as much wonder. Every wall is filled with sketches, every secret
cupboard has intricate displays, simple machines, showing you the magic of
animation. And magic really is the only word for it. I feel, moving from room
to room in a sort of daze and wanderlust, as if I’ve fallen down a Totoro hole
(no Rabbit holes here) straight into Hayao Miyazaki’s mind. This is his labyrinth.
This is his imagination. This is an ideal Japan, a perfect balanced blend of
nature, spirits, and humanity, and of course the technology that makes it all
happen.
There are
winding staircases, tiny secret doors for tiny people, soot spirits crowded
into windows, stained glass depictions of Mononoke, and. an. actual. cat. bus—if
you’re young enough to board. And that’s just the inside (where you can’t take pictures,
and it’s packed like a rush hour train—can you really blame all of these people
though? This place is great). Outside you feel like you’ve left the city
behind. You’re snuggled between the museum and a park, which has all been
placed at the end of a cute street lined with Cherry Blossoms (if it were warm
enough yet for them to bloom). You go up another winding staircase and you find
Laputa, and it feels like you’re there. Patches of green cover and destroy any
sense of the machine beneath, any sense of the city sprawling and sprawling and
sprawling across Japan. I’m standing on the roof of a castle of childhood, feel
like floating into the sky.
And then it
becomes real. Trying to navigate the gift shop isn’t so hard after seven months
in an over populated city, but it’s not easy. I stack up on almost whatever I
see, I’ve saved souvenir money for this, I look at all of it twice, I debate
over buying a few soundtracks, a copy of my favorite move in Japanese—5000 ¥,
unfortunately I’ll pass—and in the end I leave satisfied and happy.
I wish I
could write for you, and for myself again, the experience I had at this museum—even
if it was just a museum—but it’s far better to either see it yourself or drown
yourself instead in a Ghibli marathon. So instead I’ll list my favorite movies
in some kind of an order of recommendation and hope I’ve teased you enough to
make you jump on a plane to Japan.
06. Whisper
of the Heart – This movie is sweet and touching and has a rendition of John
Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads” which is, like, uber damn popular in
Japan. It opens to a familiar scene, now so close to my heart, of Tokyo, Japan.
(There is even a Family Mart ♥). It seems a little different, though, for what
we Americans are probably used to Ghibli being. It’s less...spiritual, but
still magical. It tells the story of a budding romance between a girl and this
kid who checks out all of the same books she does at the library—and crafts
violins. It’s just, cute. Watch it while cuddled up with a friend or a Totoro
and a cup of hot chocolate.
05. Howl’s
Moving Castle – This movie was higher on the list until I saw some of the other
ones, sorry Howl, because it has the most amazing characters. Sophie is smart
and sarcastic and knows what’s up when it comes to moody teenage (dare I say it
Host-like?) guys. And the fire, Calcifer, adorable. It’s darker and scarier
than other Ghibli movies, save perhaps a scene in Spirited Away, and so that
moves it down the list for me. Overall I get a complicated vibe, and maybe I’m
a little bitter about the relationship between Howl and Sophie. But still, a
very visually appealing movie.
04.
Spirited Away – This movie is better the second time around, and features of
very interesting depictions of Japanese culture. It tells the story of a young
girl who is, haha, spirited away, to grown and learn a few lessons. It is an
interesting, light hearted, and unique commentary on the qualities of humans
that make them selfish but also incredibly heroic. This is the movie you watch
when you want some Japanese infused into your life.
03. Laputa,
Castle in the Sky – Now, this movie I didn’t watch until I was planning on
visiting the museum and had to stock up on my Ghibli knowledge, but I’m very
glad that I did watch it. The movie starts out strangely to me, it feels far
less Japanese than others I grew up with (ala Spirited Away, Totoro). However,
it is absolutely beautiful. I cried for the first time at a Ghibli movie at
this movie. Those robots, god they just get straight to your heart. Hinged on
the story of two orphan kids searching for answers and truths, Laputa draws out
the beauty of our world and challenges modernity. I believe Miyazaki had strong
feelings about urban sprawl and a love for nature, and this movie beautifully
depicts those challenges and ideas. Much recommended to watch with an open mind
and an open heart.
02.
Princess Mononoke – I consider this movie to be the best Ghibli movie. It’s not
number one for reasons you’ll soon see, but it is definitely the most
emotionally and intellectually complicated story of the lot. Perhaps it seems
easy to understand: city bad, forest good, but this movie tackles issues of
environmentalism such a high level of artistry and craft it’s really difficult
to not like this movie…even if you’re a fan of destroying the earth. Not only
that the music is mind numbingly beautiful. Recommend, recommend, in any mood,
at any time, recommend.
01. My
Neighbor Totoro – Arguably the most popular/famous of all Ghibli movies, Totoro
will forever live in the warmest part of my heart. This movie mixes the
Japanese culture of Spirited Away, the modernity and simplicity of Whisper of
the Heart, and the social commentary of Princess Mononoke into one perfect
childhood adventure. It is reminiscent, perhaps, of Alice in Wonderland, but
much less worrisome and psychologically intense. Totoro is a soft spirit:
kawaii like a neko (cat), strong like a kuma (bear), loving like Mother Nature
herself. Two young girls going through immense changes in lifestyle and family
meet him when they start their new adventure, and he protects as much as he
challenges them to grow (like treeeeesss). I can’t say how much I love Totoro, it
is one of the greats, and there is a reason it is used as the face of Studio
Ghibli. So watch it, please, be innocent again.
** Up Next on Gaijin Kid: Kyoto!
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